All Chef Ought to Learn Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants.
When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.
A Shocking Recognition
This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.
“I am totally astonished,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.
The Star Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.
It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.
It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.
Outranking the Stars
Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
The Creed of Hospitality
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Path of Hard Work
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
An Recognition for the Culture
This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.